A sea lion colony resides at the northeast cove at Isla Coronado. We dove in 50 feet away and approached the colony in the water. Sea lions are amazing creatures. They were very curious and playful. They flew right by us to check us out, and performed beautiful dances underwater. I never thought I would enjoy diving with sea lion this much. Highly recommended.
1.26.2013 18:00pm
So far, we’ve done 10 dives/snorkels at the Sea of Cortez — all on our own, based on recommendation from cruising guide and dive book. They were pretty good, but nothing spectacular. After we anchored at Isla Coronoda, a well-known dive site, we deicide to pay up for professional service for a change. We called up Dolphin Dive Center, the dive shop at Loreto. Divemaster David, a very professional and friendly mexican diver, picked us up the next morning and lead two dives around north Isla Coronado. It was so worth it. The dives were outstanding! We saw sea turtles, giant sea bass, and played with sea lions! Big difference when you have local knowledge. This trip significantly changed our diving experience at the Sea of Cortez. Here is the video made from the first dive, and the second one, which is even better, is coming soon. Enjoy!
A ballonfish in its normal form.
1.23.2013 9:00am
Bahia Salinas is a big anchorage tucked in the north hook of Isla Carmen, with long stretch of white sandy beach. What also makes it interesting is the “ghost town” resting here. According to the guide book, Bahia Salinas used to have a grand salt-mining operation, which shipped salt worldwide. The company closed down in the 80s, left its buildings and piers in ruins.
1.21.2013 20:00pm
We have been thoroughly enjoying our trip in the sea of cortez, and it keeps getting better. Isla Danzante is one of the five islands that make up Islas de Golfo group, which is protected as a National Maritime Park. Honeymoon Cove, one popular anchorage on Isla Danzente, was a much anticipated stop. As we pulled into Honeymoon Cove late afternoon yesterday, our eyes widened. It is absolutely gorgeous. A secluded cove with three lobes, providing excellent wind and wave protection from N, E, S. Turquoise water, sandy beaches, with dramatic mountains in the background, “Honeymoon” is surely a deserved name for her.
1.19.2013 21:00pm
As we headed deeper north into the Sea of Cortez, 3G signal became sparser. Finally we got some connection outside of Puerto Escondido. So a quick update on last week.
We had another experience with the cruelty of the winter northernly blow in the sea. For three days, we have been trapped in Marina Cortez at La Paz due to the continuous N wind. They even closed the whole port. Worse of all, Marina Cortez, being a nice and new marina, does not have any break walls. Big swells rolled right into the marina, and all boats were rocking madly, just as the docks that they tied to! One of our dock lines broke off after bearing too much tension.
Witness “La Paz Waltz”, a well-known phenomenon where boats swing into each other at anchor inside La Paz harbor.
Yesterday marked one full month being “off the grid”, disconnected – no permanent address, no cell phone – just an email address and a PO box. We duck into La Paz — restock and rest during the forecast 3-day northerly blow.
In one month: we’ve run 1452 nautical miles, 204 main engine hours, 65 generator hours, 12 wing engine hours. We’ve used 1370 gallons of fuel – accounting for the wing engine and generator time we averaged 5.8 gph on the main engine. Taking the times down here in La Paz – I can now announce the Big Cat in the engine room (our only pet on board) crossed 9000 hours – barely broken in.
1.13.2013 15:00 pm
Puerto Ballena was beautiful, and well protected from N wind, but it was a nightmare with W wind. On our second night at the anchorage, wind started blowing from the W at midnight. Swells rolled directly into the cove. Surely enough, we re-lived our Channel Islands nightmare — had to re-anchor in complete darkness. Luckily we managed without much drama, but decided we’d move to a better anchorage the next morning.
Caleta Partida, the strait between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla La Parfida, is recognized as the best anchorage in the area. After the re-anchor exercise, Caleta Partida sounded pretty good to us. It was indeed a great spot, a sweet cove tucked in between the two islands. We even saw a whale hanging out on our way into the anchorage.
1.9.2013 15:00pm 75F
So far, we have cruised for 4 days in south Sea of Cortez. The desert-like Baja mountains kept amazing us with her unique landscape and rustic nature. But today, as Gray Matter approached the infamous Isla Espiritu Santo, we were stunned — the real beauty of the Sea has just begun. Red rock mountains rise and fall, stretching the 8 miles along the N-S axis of the island, with short ridges extending westwards. These short ridges drop sharply into the water, forming the most wild-looking red cliffs. As many described before, it feels like the Grand Canyon, but only in water.
We anchored at Puerto Ballena, one of the three coves in the mid island. Turquoise water occupied the inner half of the cove, ending in white sandy beaches. A tranquil paradise.
Red cliffs surround the cove, with Baja Peninsula in the distance.
1.9.2013 15:00pm 76F
Sea of Cortez is notorious for northerly winds in the winter. We just had our first taste in the last week. Four out of five days, strong wind blew out of the north, stirring up big swells, making northbound passage into Sea of Cortez very challenging. It is not comfortable but still doable in a trawler or powerboat, really a pain for those sailboats trying to sail up wind in deep swells.
We anchored at Bahia Los Frailes. Beautiful anchorage and very well sheltered from N wind and swell. We stayed there for 3 days to wait out these N winds.
We’ve decided to duck into Puerto Los Cabos marina / resort just north east of Cabo San Lucas, it was windy and we could use some groceries. We have two mountain bikes and a small collapable Burley trailer that we envisioned using for grocery shopping.
