When we cleared into Ensenada Mexico in late December it wasn’t clear when I’d need these American Dollars I had from the craigslist firesale of everything “unneeded”. Here in the middle of Polynesia is a little bit of ‘Merica.

Our original plans to head to Tonga changed given the weather, which has continued to be unfavorable for passage and stay in Tonga. 450 miles west of Suwarrow lays American Somoa; four islands of polynesian history that are an American Territory. So yes – McDonalds, ACE Hardware, English speakers, US Dollars (no FX charges on your Visa card). What we didn’t expect was stunning beauty, a combination of the Marquesas Islands with convenience of a weekend at Catalina.

Industrial, but surely beautiful.

Best hardware store in south pacific.

The locals cannot wait to tell us about the McDonalds.

Mark is ready to move here.

Riding the local bus is quite an experience. Each one is equipped full-power stereo broadcasting American pop music. Check out the video at the end.

After a quick survey of the main port of Pago Pago, we arranged with the Port Captain to visit the Manu’a Islands east of the main island. We found a small harbor in Ofu, offloaded our mountain bikes to find a sand / dirt road to a small village, then some pavement that ends at the end of the 2100′ runway to Ofu airport (about the size of San Carlos). With no scheduled flights or planes in site, we biked down the runway (love being on the centerline), and stopped at the ranger station at the other end of the runway. US Park Service – yes, professional ranger with maps, and plenty of information about the park on the island. Carlo the ranger here has a different view than his counterparts at Yosemite. We continued a ride over to survey the anchorage of the town / house of Sili, then headed back to Gray Matter.

NPS boat, with boathouse in construction.

National Park – untouched beach and stunning coral.

View at Sili anchorage.

After 3 days exploring and diving two of the spectacular coral reefs we headed back to Pago Pago. We’ll fuel and provision (yes reload some Napa Cab Sav at duty-free prices) and then head to Fiji early the week of July 22.

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