Wednesday morning we moved to Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay), where Survivor was filmed. Having the whole bay to ourselves, we shot some “boat porn” (pictures of Gray Matter). Spending the rest of the day doing some small boat projects, we planned for a big hike to the Vaipo falls the next morning.

Thursday at 7:30am, we landed the dinghy at the mouth of the small river to begin the 2-hour hike to one of highest waterfalls in the world – 350 meters – 1000 feet. The trail started and went through a small Marquesas village here. The locals were known for their warmth and hospitality. Walking by the first house on the trail, we were greeted by Tiki, inviting us for some fruit and drink. Anxious to get on the hike, we told him we would stop by on the way back.

Paradise.

Coconut crab.

Tiki greeting us at his front door.

A friendly kitty.

Trail through the village.

The 3.5 hour round trip hike proved all we could ask for in the way of adventure. Lush tropical forests, fresh water stream crossings and finally the spectacular Vaipo falls. Think of Yosemite before it was a national park. The trail was marked with small rocks stacked on each other; otherwise you are on your own.

A glimpse of the fall.

Many river crossings. Keen shoes are made for this hike.

At the moment of this shot, Christine has no idea that 100+ mosquitos were feasting on her feet.

Trail marker.

At the falls, Christine took a refreshing swim, and then we were soon on our way back, hoping to get back on the boat before noon.

Stones at the fall.

Water was refreshing.

Returning to the beach, we found our 350 pound dinghy high and dry with high tide another 5 hours away. We pushed it over the sand by putting the wooden oars under it – and managed to get it into the river – it took us half an hour to move this 20 feet and there was no way we could move it the remaining 50 feet to the surf line.

Desperately, we walked back to Tiki’s house and asked for help. “No problem”, Tiki put off his work – hauling coconut bags around (31 a bag). They kindly offered us a fresh grapefruit (the most delicious ever) and some water. Then Tiki grabbed his machete and asked the two boys (ages 8 and 14) to follow. When we got to the dinghy, Tiki asked the boys to grab each side, and then put the bowline around his waist. He jerked the line and the boat floated right out of the mud. He just walked out to the surf, towing the dinghy like it was a toy. We got back to Gray Matter, still couldn’t believe what had happened. As Christine said – there are men, there are real men and then there is Tiki.

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