Our first post was Nov 13 2012, after 12 years much has changed, but Gray Matter is still our home.   In our first post, we shared our Bon Voyage party, and a month later we left the Bay Area on Nordhavn 6206 to voyage across the Pacific to Brisbane Australia – a trip that changed our lives forever.

We posted a lot in the beginning, then life got busy and we got lazy, and we neglected this blog, but continued to live and explore on Gray Matter.  Since our last post 6 years ago detailing our unique drama off the east coast of Australia; we shipped Gray Matter to the US east coast, lived in Boston a few years, cruised up to Maine, Chesapeake Bay, and down to the Bahamas. Last year we ventured to Rio Dulce, Guatemala and completed a major refit of Gray Matter including a full repaint.   We are extremely happy with the work and our like-new boat.   In the video below, one can see Gray Matter looks better now than the day we purchased her 13+ years ago.   With more than 14,000 hours on the Caterpillar main engine, not a hint of exhaust smoke; she runs like new.   All systems either replaced, or refurbished including our new-to-us Bauer dive compressor.

A lot has changed in 12 years, however the one consistent part of our life is Gray Matter.   Christine is not longer an academic — she joined industry and is now working (full time from Gray Matter via Starlink) as the Chief Scientific Officer of a health-tech company. Mark, after returning to Silicon Valley, “retired” to pursue his childhood dream as a professional pilot.   After 1500 flying hours and 2 jet type ratings, he was ready to really retire and now spends much of his time playing guitar (maybe there’s one last career option?). 

Most of our cruising friends from 12 years ago are land based now and still adventuring.   And of course we have made many new friends over the years, always learning about someplace new to explore.   As we sit in the Western Caribbean for our second season here, we could never have planned or even imagined that we would be able to live this life of adventure for so many years, and we are forever thankful – Happy Thanksgiving.

We been moving every day or two, but spent the last two days back in Taiohae the main anchorage in Nuku Hiva.  The Round the World Oyster fleet started arriving Sunday and there are about 15 of the 25 boats anchored around Gray Matter.  We are still the only trawler / powerboat among the 30 some boats anchored here.

Yesterday on the Taiohae dock we met Alan and Jean De Toit who double-handed their Oyster 575 from the Galapagos arriving here two days ago.  The asked which boat we were on – we are always a little shy about admitting it’s “THE trawler”.  They were immediately curious.  We had them over yesterday for a tour and chat – they are are on their second circumnavigation, having done the first on a 34 foot sailboat.  They liked the space and simplicity of Gray Matter.  Their blog:  http://yachtlegend.blogspot.com/  (Dan: another prospect for you).

One our first day here we chatted with a couple on a 40′ Catamaran Litespeed – Dave and Cathy.  Dave has been “touring” the South Pacific for 8 years, and Cathy joined in New Zealand in 2007. They gave us a huge download on what to see in the Marquesas as well as the highlights between here in Australia.  They also referenced a couple of other sailing blogs which we will pass on if they prove helpful.  When we talked to them a week ago, they were heading back to the US to re-enter the working world.  Last night they told us they are heading to Darwin Australia to join a rally through Indonesia for 3 months, and they need to be in Darwin by July.  We asked when they’re leaving – “maybe tomorrow”.

After our afternoon with fellow cruisers, our 5000 miles and 3 months cruising seems like a scratch on the surface.  So many places to go and I wonder if someday we can contemplate one week going east and the next going west.

We crossed 1000 nm since our departure from San Francisco; 1/8 th of our 8000 mile journey is completed in just the first 18 days. We’ve consistly averaged over 8.5 knots / slightly more than 200 miles over 24 hours. In 18 days, we’ve spent 1 day at the dock in Ensenada, we’re very pleased with the battery consumption and power generation.

We’re gaining confidence in picking our weather windows. Between the KVH V7 and our Telcel USB connection here in Mexico, we can download current grib files and NOAA marine forecasts. We deoarted San Francisco ahead of the series of fronts coming out of the North Pacific, road out a gale at anchor in the Channel Islands (definitely have our anchor tackle figured out – not to mention the anchor alarm and GPS track feature). We ran south from Redondo Beach ahead of another front although we had the 10 – 12 foot swells on our Ensenada passage. Now 500 miles south of Ensenada we still have a some NW swell and as forecasted a NE wind which is making things a little sloppy. Last two overnights have had plenty of moonlight – nice to have the horizon in sight.

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