Category Archives: trip

Bon weekend — Raroia

We finally ventured out side of Makemo and made a trip to Raroia. As mentioned in the last post, we have become good friends with a french couple working here in Makemo, and they proposed a weekend dive trip and exploration to Raroia. We laughed a little to ourselves, as we have not planned around “a weekend” in more than 5 months, so for all those folks with Monday to Friday jobs, we have renewed empathy.

The tides were perfect for leaving Makemo Friday night, and we ran all night at slow speed to cover the 70 miles to Raroia arriving at slack tide and sunrise (5:30am). We took a quick nap and then launched the dinghy for some exploration in the village. It was curious to learn that while Makemo has 600 people and can support a doctor and nurse, Raroia has only 200 people and just has a nurses aid for medical help. As in Europe, healthcare here is provided by the government at no charge.

Entering Raroia at sunrise

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Stuck in paradise

We posted more than a week ago that Makemo was the definition of paradise, after more than a week here (our longest stay of the trip) we can say it has been an amazing experience. When we met the French couple living on the island who sailboat we moored next to, we had no idea we would spend our days diving and exploring with the benefit of local knowledge. We anchored Gray Matter in their front yard, and they were kind of enough to share a few pictures (we are always ready for more boat porn).

View of Gray Matter from our friends’ front yard.

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Makemo – definite of tropical paradise

Makemo, if you look in the dictionary for the definition of tropical island paradise, it will say Makemo. Imagine an island the size of Catalina, that sinks leaving nothing but a tropical reef around the edge. The lagoon in the middle is a 24 mile wide lake, 100 feet deep in most places with coral “towers” growing to the surface. Careful lookout is required but the coral heads are easy to see from the Gray Matter pilothouse.

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Leaving Marquesas

We left Tahuata on Wednesday, Apr 24, for a 2.5 day passage to the Tuamotus, thus closed the Marquesas chapter in our voyage. During these three weeks, we visited 5 islands in total, Nuku Hiva, Eiao, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva, Hiva Oa and Tahuata. We enjoyed Marquesas tremendously, particularly the south islands, beautiful scenery, unique culture, and unspoiled. Here are the pictures from Tahuata.

Inter-island Football tournament at Vaitahu village.

Lovely bay at Vaitahu village.

Church is truly a masterpiece of Marquesans art.

Manta rays was the highlight at Hanamoenoa bay.  (Will upload video when we have better internet) 

Gray Matter and Dirona rejoined, 5000 miles later.

Wall diving at Fatu Hiva

We had never seen any recommendation on diving at Fatu Hiva, neither travel guide or diving book ever mention here — just too remote. We found the most fabulous wall diving right at the Bay of Virgins. Sheer wall drops into 100+ ft, caves tuck underwater like giant cathedrals, tens of thousands fish … Plus 80+ft visibility and 80+F water temp. We could ask no more.

Here is a glimpse. Enjoy.

Good bye to Fatu Hiva

Leaving Fatu Hiva was not easy but after five beautiful days, we are now underway to Hiva Oa, the largest island in the Marquesas. We expect to reprovision there, make one more stop at Tahuata and then depart the Marquesas for the Tuamoto Islands.

When we met Dana Felecia in the Sea of Cortez, Sven said Fata Hiva is one of the most beautiful islands in the Pacific (after cruising 76,000 miles). Our expectations were sky-high and we were not disappointed. It has everything; great anchorage, cool breeze, great shore access, hiking with spectacular scenery and phenomenal diving. We’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

Picturesque anchorage – Bay of Virgins.


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Polynesian experience

Wednesday morning we moved to Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay), where Survivor was filmed. Having the whole bay to ourselves, we shot some “boat porn” (pictures of Gray Matter). Spending the rest of the day doing some small boat projects, we planned for a big hike to the Vaipo falls the next morning.

Thursday at 7:30am, we landed the dinghy at the mouth of the small river to begin the 2-hour hike to one of highest waterfalls in the world – 350 meters – 1000 feet. The trail started and went through a small Marquesas village here. The locals were known for their warmth and hospitality. Walking by the first house on the trail, we were greeted by Tiki, inviting us for some fruit and drink. Anxious to get on the hike, we told him we would stop by on the way back.

Paradise.

Coconut crab.

Tiki greeting us at his front door.

A friendly kitty.

Trail through the village.

The 3.5 hour round trip hike proved all we could ask for in the way of adventure. Lush tropical forests, fresh water stream crossings and finally the spectacular Vaipo falls. Think of Yosemite before it was a national park. The trail was marked with small rocks stacked on each other; otherwise you are on your own.

A glimpse of the fall.

Many river crossings. Keen shoes are made for this hike.

At the moment of this shot, Christine has no idea that 100+ mosquitos were feasting on her feet.

Trail marker.

At the falls, Christine took a refreshing swim, and then we were soon on our way back, hoping to get back on the boat before noon.

Stones at the fall.

Water was refreshing.

Returning to the beach, we found our 350 pound dinghy high and dry with high tide another 5 hours away. We pushed it over the sand by putting the wooden oars under it – and managed to get it into the river – it took us half an hour to move this 20 feet and there was no way we could move it the remaining 50 feet to the surf line.

Desperately, we walked back to Tiki’s house and asked for help. “No problem”, Tiki put off his work – hauling coconut bags around (31 a bag). They kindly offered us a fresh grapefruit (the most delicious ever) and some water. Then Tiki grabbed his machete and asked the two boys (ages 8 and 14) to follow. When we got to the dinghy, Tiki asked the boys to grab each side, and then put the bowline around his waist. He jerked the line and the boat floated right out of the mud. He just walked out to the surf, towing the dinghy like it was a toy. We got back to Gray Matter, still couldn’t believe what had happened. As Christine said – there are men, there are real men and then there is Tiki.



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Pacific Crossing Summary

We have a wifi internet connection, so we were able to review all the blog posts – thanks very much to our friends – we were definitely not alone out there.

To add some pictures and comments on the projects.

The solar project has been a great success. We are producing between 2.2 – 3.1 kwh per day – which is at the high end of our expectations. This will easily allow us to only need 1 hour of generator per day when at anchor.

Blower wiring project, we just post a picture of the 230v AC wiring – we had to sort our way through that maze to wire the port side blower to the inverter. We had a good instructor – Melt Emms from Raven Marine – available by email and sat phone when we need him.

Flopper stopper repair
Old version

New version

Another view – note the bird repellant at the end, which would be sticking up on top when flopper stopper is retracted.

Newly installed Bose speaker – and the 100ft sailboat that is our neighbor here in Nuku Hiva.

Trip Stats: Total distance: 2676 nautical miles, average speed: 7.5k, fuel burn: 3.5 gph, engine hours: 361, total fuel consumed: 1278 gallons, fuel remaining: 895.

Trip started from Isla San Benedicto, MX.

We saw this cargo ship (China – Peru) on Day 4, and she was the last ship we saw before landfall at Nuku Hiva.

Last sunset in the northern hemisphere.

Sunrise as we approach Nuku Hiva.

First sight of land after two weeks! Nuku Hiva, here we come.

We hooked a decent yellowfin tuna on the way in. Our biggest catch so far.

A very productive catch.

Dinner for weeks …

Just a few thoughts on the passage. We noted during the passage, we passed time by looking at the world cruising routes and contemplating some of the other places in the world to visit. The 2600 miles from North America to the Society Islands is one of the longest passages without landfall in the world. It would be an understatement to say we feel a sense of accomplishment to complete this passage with so little to worry about.

It’s a credit to Nordhavn’s voyaging under power philosophy in that two of us can take a 100 ton boat 2600 miles across one third of the Pacific Ocean. We were able to deal with the small mechanical issues, fix a few small things and arrive so rested we toured an extra 50 miles; caught and cleaned a 30lb tuna; anchored and didn’t even take a nap. I can honestly say the boat is as good if not better condition then when we left.

We truly feel we can go anywhere in the world we want, and look forward to many more adventures.

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