5 manta rays cruised into our anchorage at Tahuata, and were playing around Gray Matter for an hour. Here are some shots. Enjoy!
Makemo – definite of tropical paradise
Makemo, if you look in the dictionary for the definition of tropical island paradise, it will say Makemo. Imagine an island the size of Catalina, that sinks leaving nothing but a tropical reef around the edge. The lagoon in the middle is a 24 mile wide lake, 100 feet deep in most places with coral “towers” growing to the surface. Careful lookout is required but the coral heads are easy to see from the Gray Matter pilothouse.
Leaving Marquesas
We left Tahuata on Wednesday, Apr 24, for a 2.5 day passage to the Tuamotus, thus closed the Marquesas chapter in our voyage. During these three weeks, we visited 5 islands in total, Nuku Hiva, Eiao, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva, Hiva Oa and Tahuata. We enjoyed Marquesas tremendously, particularly the south islands, beautiful scenery, unique culture, and unspoiled. Here are the pictures from Tahuata.
Inter-island Football tournament at Vaitahu village.
Lovely bay at Vaitahu village.
Church is truly a masterpiece of Marquesans art.
Manta rays was the highlight at Hanamoenoa bay. (Will upload video when we have better internet)
Gray Matter and Dirona rejoined, 5000 miles later.
Tahuata
From Fata Hiva we made the 45 mile trip to the village Atuona on the island of HIva Oa. Atuona and Taiohae on Nuka Hiva are the two main entry points for boats clearing into the Marquesas and the anchorage was crowded with new arrivals. A new experience for Christine, given the 1+ mile from the dinghy landing to town, she discovered the art of hitchhiking. We got a ride with a Frenchman on the way in and a a Finnish lady on the way out. As beautiful as it is, the anchorage was very congested and uncomfortable. The next morning we headed to the island of Tahuata. Hanamoenoa bay is the most popular anchorage on Tahauta. But it looked crowded on our first pass, so we continued to the village of Vaitahu. There was a multi-island football (soccer) tournament happening. A shoreside football filed was quite a view – you’d better make sure not to kick the ball too off. Ashore we found a small archeological museum and met Emily, a grad student from Boston. Helping with the English / French translation, her host-sister walked home and came back with two huge bags of fresh fruit. Refusing to take any money, we gave her a chocolate bar and a small golden pig Christine had from China. She was thrilled with the little pig – and we were equally thrilled with the fruits. The most amazing sight was the Catholic church in the middle of the village, stone arches, wooden windows and doors curved with Marquesans motifs – she was magnificent. We did another nice dive north of the village. Visibility was not as good as Fatu Hiva, but decent. We experienced for the first time swimming with thousands of fish – unreal. Sunday we moved back to Hanamoenoa bay to socialize with a couple of the boats we met in Fata Hiva. Well, it is crowded for very good reasons. Sendy beach, crystal water, and great snorkeling. The next morning we heard people in the water at 6:30am – and sure enough 3 or 4 giant manta rays were swimming in the bay. Monday afternoon we had the pleasure of welcoming our friends the Hamilton’s on Nordhavn Dirona, who arrived from Oa Pou. We had a great time catching up over a couple of Margaritas and will spend the next couple of days with them. It is somewhat Ironic that a chance meeting on our first outting on Gray Matter has now lead to a reunion two years later, 5000 miles from Roche Harbor. We are sitting in the southern most anchorage on Tahuata – just the two Nordhavns – waiting for the Nordhavn marketing team to arrive for the photoshoot. This morning before leaving with Dirona, we had special visit with the giant Manta Rays.right at Gray Matter. Christine befriended 4 or 5 of the giant manats, and swimming more than an hour together (with the go-pro camera) captured some great footage of these graceful rays. We are likely to have internet connectivity when we arrive in the Tuamotos Friday or Saturday and will be sure to upload the video. We’ve now been in the Marquesas Islands three weeks, at least once a day one of us says “can you believe we are here, this is really living the dream”. [google-map-v3 width=”350″ height=”350″ zoom=”7″ maptype=”satellite” mapalign=”center” directionhint=”false” language=”default” poweredby=”false” maptypecontrol=”true” pancontrol=”true” zoomcontrol=”true” scalecontrol=”true” streetviewcontrol=”true” scrollwheelcontrol=”false” draggable=”true” tiltfourtyfive=”false” addmarkermashupbubble=”false” addmarkermashupbubble=”false” addmarkerlist=”-9.9080,-139.1050{}cruiseship.png” bubbleautopan=”true” showbike=”false” showtraffic=”false” showpanoramio=”false”]
Wall diving at Fatu Hiva
We had never seen any recommendation on diving at Fatu Hiva, neither travel guide or diving book ever mention here — just too remote. We found the most fabulous wall diving right at the Bay of Virgins. Sheer wall drops into 100+ ft, caves tuck underwater like giant cathedrals, tens of thousands fish … Plus 80+ft visibility and 80+F water temp. We could ask no more.
Here is a glimpse. Enjoy.
Good bye to Fatu Hiva
Leaving Fatu Hiva was not easy but after five beautiful days, we are now underway to Hiva Oa, the largest island in the Marquesas. We expect to reprovision there, make one more stop at Tahuata and then depart the Marquesas for the Tuamoto Islands.
When we met Dana Felecia in the Sea of Cortez, Sven said Fata Hiva is one of the most beautiful islands in the Pacific (after cruising 76,000 miles). Our expectations were sky-high and we were not disappointed. It has everything; great anchorage, cool breeze, great shore access, hiking with spectacular scenery and phenomenal diving. We’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
Picturesque anchorage – Bay of Virgins.
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Fata Hiva
We arrived here Sunday morning after making the all night passage from Ua Pou. The passage had wind and waves on the portside, so we had a bit of a rough ride and with salt everywhere. Timed perfectly with our arrival, one of those tropical downpours fell like a car wash; sure enough after we anchored, the boat was squeaky clean. By all previous standards, this is a crowded anchorage – 6 boats. The only place to drop the anchor was in 100 feet of water, so we let out 350 feet of chain and haven’t moved in the last two days. There is a steady offshore breeze with occasional gusts (williwaws) which makes for the perfect temperature inside and outside. We were told by many that this is the most spectacular anchorage in the Marquesas and we definitely agree. Giant black lava rocks peak though lush mountain ranges; coconut trees cover cliffs surrounding the anchorage. With the scenery, the moderate temperatures, and clear water visibility, this is the place to stay. Yesterday, we tested a dive just on the north side of the anchorage. With visibility of 50+ feet, we were treated by a wall of coral and tropical fish in 84 degree water. We saw several octopus, gliding along crevices, quickly changing colors to fit in the environment. Eels stuck their heads out through rocky holes, checking us out. Deep down at 80 feet, I looked up along the sharp underwater cliff, thousands of silver trouts hovering right above – it felt like magic. We didn’t see any of the big fish (sharks, mantas) that are rumored to be here – will be looking for them on today’s dive. Last night, one of the boats in the anchorage coordinated with a local family to prepare a polynesian dinner. We joined 10 other cruisers (2 boats from Germany, 1 from Finland and 3 American boats) for chicken, fish, papaya salad, coconut milk, banana feast. Between the company and the bit of music the host provided at the end of the night, it was a unique and memorable experience to say the least. We have limited (Iridium) internet access, so will have to wait to post pictures. [google-map-v3 width=”350″ height=”350″ zoom=”7″ maptype=”satellite” mapalign=”center” directionhint=”false” language=”default” poweredby=”false” maptypecontrol=”true” pancontrol=”true” zoomcontrol=”true” scalecontrol=”true” streetviewcontrol=”true” scrollwheelcontrol=”false” draggable=”true” tiltfourtyfive=”false” addmarkermashupbubble=”false” addmarkermashupbubble=”false” addmarkerlist=”-10.4647,-136.6697{}cruiseship.png” bubbleautopan=”true” showbike=”false” showtraffic=”false” showpanoramio=”false”]
Polynesian experience
Wednesday morning we moved to Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay), where Survivor was filmed. Having the whole bay to ourselves, we shot some “boat porn” (pictures of Gray Matter). Spending the rest of the day doing some small boat projects, we planned for a big hike to the Vaipo falls the next morning.
Thursday at 7:30am, we landed the dinghy at the mouth of the small river to begin the 2-hour hike to one of highest waterfalls in the world – 350 meters – 1000 feet. The trail started and went through a small Marquesas village here. The locals were known for their warmth and hospitality. Walking by the first house on the trail, we were greeted by Tiki, inviting us for some fruit and drink. Anxious to get on the hike, we told him we would stop by on the way back.
Paradise.
Coconut crab.
Tiki greeting us at his front door.
A friendly kitty.
Trail through the village.
The 3.5 hour round trip hike proved all we could ask for in the way of adventure. Lush tropical forests, fresh water stream crossings and finally the spectacular Vaipo falls. Think of Yosemite before it was a national park. The trail was marked with small rocks stacked on each other; otherwise you are on your own.
A glimpse of the fall.
Many river crossings. Keen shoes are made for this hike.
At the moment of this shot, Christine has no idea that 100+ mosquitos were feasting on her feet.
Trail marker.
At the falls, Christine took a refreshing swim, and then we were soon on our way back, hoping to get back on the boat before noon.
Stones at the fall.
Water was refreshing.
Returning to the beach, we found our 350 pound dinghy high and dry with high tide another 5 hours away. We pushed it over the sand by putting the wooden oars under it – and managed to get it into the river – it took us half an hour to move this 20 feet and there was no way we could move it the remaining 50 feet to the surf line.
Desperately, we walked back to Tiki’s house and asked for help. “No problem”, Tiki put off his work – hauling coconut bags around (31 a bag). They kindly offered us a fresh grapefruit (the most delicious ever) and some water. Then Tiki grabbed his machete and asked the two boys (ages 8 and 14) to follow. When we got to the dinghy, Tiki asked the boys to grab each side, and then put the bowline around his waist. He jerked the line and the boat floated right out of the mud. He just walked out to the surf, towing the dinghy like it was a toy. We got back to Gray Matter, still couldn’t believe what had happened. As Christine said – there are men, there are real men and then there is Tiki.
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Fellow cruisers
We been moving every day or two, but spent the last two days back in Taiohae the main anchorage in Nuku Hiva. The Round the World Oyster fleet started arriving Sunday and there are about 15 of the 25 boats anchored around Gray Matter. We are still the only trawler / powerboat among the 30 some boats anchored here.
Yesterday on the Taiohae dock we met Alan and Jean De Toit who double-handed their Oyster 575 from the Galapagos arriving here two days ago. The asked which boat we were on – we are always a little shy about admitting it’s “THE trawler”. They were immediately curious. We had them over yesterday for a tour and chat – they are are on their second circumnavigation, having done the first on a 34 foot sailboat. They liked the space and simplicity of Gray Matter. Their blog: http://yachtlegend.blogspot.
One our first day here we chatted with a couple on a 40′ Catamaran Litespeed – Dave and Cathy. Dave has been “touring” the South Pacific for 8 years, and Cathy joined in New Zealand in 2007. They gave us a huge download on what to see in the Marquesas as well as the highlights between here in Australia. They also referenced a couple of other sailing blogs which we will pass on if they prove helpful. When we talked to them a week ago, they were heading back to the US to re-enter the working world. Last night they told us they are heading to Darwin Australia to join a rally through Indonesia for 3 months, and they need to be in Darwin by July. We asked when they’re leaving – “maybe tomorrow”.
After our afternoon with fellow cruisers, our 5000 miles and 3 months cruising seems like a scratch on the surface. So many places to go and I wonder if someday we can contemplate one week going east and the next going west.
Circumnavigating Nuku Hiva
We’ve now spent a week in the Marquesas Islands, and have been relaxing (and not posting). We spend a couple days at Taiohae, the main village on Nuku Hiva, cleaned up and provisioned Gray Matter with tropical fruits and French bread.
Taiohae in the morning sun.
The main road
The bank.
Taiohae anchorage. Next to the 146-foot Sarassa, Gray Matter looks small.
Morning market.
When a southeast swell rolled into the anchorage, we decided to explore other anchorages on Nuku Hiva, in hope of smoother water. On Wednesday, we went around to the north side of Nuku Hiva and anchored at Pou and Hatiheu. The landscape at each anchorage is majestic, with sharp rainforest mountains reaching 2000 feet from sea level. The first anchorage had a small plantation and the second anchorage Hatiheu, the writing home of Robert Lewis Stevenson. Unfortunately, neither anchorage was very smooth. On Friday, we set “sail” for the uninhabited out islands – Eaio (yes all vowels) and Hatutu.
Odyssey at Pou.
Spectacular mountain peaks at Hatiheu.
Hatiheu’s iconic church.
The anchorage at Eiao was directly on the leeward side, good chance to be sheltered from wind and well. It was spectacular and 20+ giant Manta rays glided right next to the boat as we pulled into the anchorage. To our surprise, swells still wrapped around and made their way into the anchorage. As this is the only anchorage among these out islands, we stayed – good thing we still have our sea legs.
Sunset at Eiao.
After rock & roll all night, we got underway first thing the next morning, to visit the Indian Rock on the north tip of Hatutu. This route is primo fishing and we weren’t gonna pass on this opportunity. We put three lines in the water plus two decoys. Action started soon enough – we trolled right through a feeding frenzy. Something HUGE hit the decoys (which have no hooks) breaking the 150lb test line. All three rods got hit the same time. The spinning rod was running out so fast – we had no hope to save the line there (it’s only 30lb test). Christine put the boat in slow idle and jumped on the marlin lure, while I were reeling in the feather lure. Giving each of the fish some line to run so they are tired when they get to the boat, the first fish in the boat was a 20lb Rainbow Runner (jack family – very eatable), and the second was a smaller 15lb Yellowfin tuna. Feeling lucky we put the lines back out and hooked another two fish at the same time, one got off, and we got a second 15lb Yellowfin. With three fish to clean we decided we’d take a rest. The freezer is fully packed now.
The Indian Rock. Supposely great diving, but the condition was too rough.
Arriving just at sunset, we finally found a smooth anchorage on the north side of Nuku Hiva – Anaho. This is truly a paradise. 3-4 beach houses tucked in sandy beaches and spectacular mountain ranges. Sunday morning we explored with the paddleboards and then enjoyed a scuba dive off the anchorage. With 86+F water temperatures, it’s a pleasure to dive without any wetsuits.
Approaching Anaho at sunset.
Best anchorage on Nuku Hiva, Anaho.
We plan to get fuel in Taiohae Monday or Tuesday and then continue to explore the other islands.
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