Bahia Agua Verde — another winner

2.10.2013 6:00pm

After exploring the far north of the Sea of Cortez, we are on our way back south. We plan to cover the 300 nm to La Paz in 4 days, and stopped by several anchorages we skipped on the way up. Bahia Agua Verde, another cortez favorite, is high on our list.

We have been riding some good size N swells when we entered Bahia Agua Verde. Although Bahia Agua Verde is a big anchorage, only the very west cove offers protection from N swell. Luckily, there was only one other boat at this west cove and we were able to tuck Gray Matter in. Another sailboat came in right after we anchored and had to leave — Gray Matter took up half the cove.

The stretch between Loreto and La Paz has the most stunning landscape along the Baja Peninsula.

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Isla Salsipuedes — the far north of our Cortez expedition

2.7.2013 6:00pm

We enjoyed the hospitality from Dave and Bobbi so much that we invited them for a small outing on Gray Matter. Bobbi told me that they have never been to the north portion of the sea, the Midriff islands, the most remote and mysterious islands in the Sea of Cortez. I looked up on the guide book, Punta San Francisquito, an anchorage close to Midriff regions, has an airstrip. As Dave and Bobbi are both private pilots and have their plane here, a perfect plan is taking shape — We can run Gray Matter up to Punta San Francisquito, pick up Dave and Bobbi from their plane, and then enjoy 3 days cruising around Midriff together. I never thought we’d make that far north into the Sea of Cortez, but here we go.

We visited Isla Tiburon, the biggest island in Mexico, and then another day at Isla Salsipuedes. It is significantly colder up here, especially water temperature dropped to barely above 60F. Lucky for me, Bobbi loves to jump into the water, just like me. So the two girls jumped in for snorkeling and hunting. We harvested mussels, rock scallops and sea snails. Mark also did good on fishing — he traded four freshly-caught cabrilla from the local fishermen with four cokes. We enjoyed seafood dinner every night.

The tip of Isla Salsipuedes.

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Posada Conception — having trouble leaving …

2.3.2013 5:00pm

We had planned a short stay, 2-3 days, at Bahia Conception, just to dodge the forecast north wind. Bahia Conception is a large bay, 20 miles long, located 70 miles north of Loreto. We headed towards Bahia Coyote, 8 miles after entering Bahia Conception, for the best protection. Knowing it is a popular tourist destination, we were still shocked and overwhelmed by the amount of RVs at Coyote’s first cove, Playa Santispac. We went in a bit deeper, and dropped our anchor at Posada Conception, which seemed to be a bit quieter. Posado is a private community, with beautiful houses on the beach and up on the hill. A sharp contrast to our previous seclude anchorages — I wasn’t sure what to expect.

RVs lined up at Playa Santispac.

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Diving at Isla Coronado — video (2)

A sea lion colony resides at the northeast cove at Isla Coronado.  We dove in 50 feet away and approached the colony in the water.  Sea lions are amazing creatures.  They were very curious and playful.  They flew right by us to check us out, and performed beautiful dances underwater.   I never thought I would enjoy diving with sea lion this much.  Highly recommended.

Diving at Isla Coronado — video (1)

1.26.2013 18:00pm

So far, we’ve done 10 dives/snorkels at the Sea of Cortez — all on our own, based on recommendation from cruising guide and dive book. They were pretty good, but nothing spectacular. After we anchored at Isla Coronoda, a well-known dive site, we deicide to pay up for professional service for a change. We called up Dolphin Dive Center, the dive shop at Loreto. Divemaster David, a very professional and friendly mexican diver, picked us up the next morning and lead two dives around north Isla Coronado. It was so worth it. The dives were outstanding! We saw sea turtles, giant sea bass, and played with sea lions! Big difference when you have local knowledge. This trip significantly changed our diving experience at the Sea of Cortez. Here is the video made from the first dive, and the second one, which is even better, is coming soon. Enjoy!

A ballonfish in its normal form.

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Bahia Salinas — the private land …

1.23.2013 9:00am

Bahia Salinas is a big anchorage tucked in the north hook of Isla Carmen, with long stretch of white sandy beach. What also makes it interesting is the “ghost town” resting here. According to the guide book, Bahia Salinas used to have a grand salt-mining operation, which shipped salt worldwide. The company closed down in the 80s, left its buildings and piers in ruins.


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Honeymoon cove — Our favorite anchorage so far!

1.21.2013 20:00pm

We have been thoroughly enjoying our trip in the sea of cortez, and it keeps getting better. Isla Danzante is one of the five islands that make up Islas de Golfo group, which is protected as a National Maritime Park. Honeymoon Cove, one popular anchorage on Isla Danzente, was a much anticipated stop.  As we pulled into Honeymoon Cove late afternoon yesterday, our eyes widened. It is absolutely gorgeous. A secluded cove with three lobes, providing excellent wind and wave protection from N, E, S. Turquoise water, sandy beaches, with dramatic mountains in the background, “Honeymoon” is surely a deserved name for her.


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Deeper into the Sea of Cortez

1.19.2013 21:00pm

As we headed deeper north into the Sea of Cortez, 3G signal became sparser. Finally we got some connection outside of Puerto Escondido. So a quick update on last week.

 

We had another experience with the cruelty of the winter northernly blow in the sea. For three days, we have been trapped in Marina Cortez at La Paz due to the continuous N wind. They even closed the whole port. Worse of all, Marina Cortez, being a nice and new marina, does not have any break walls. Big swells rolled right into the marina, and all boats were rocking madly, just as the docks that they tied to! One of our dock lines broke off after bearing too much tension.

Witness “La Paz Waltz”, a well-known phenomenon where boats swing into each other at anchor inside La Paz harbor.


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One Month

Yesterday marked one full month being “off the grid”, disconnected – no permanent address, no cell phone – just an email address and a PO box.  We duck into La Paz — restock and rest during the forecast 3-day northerly blow.

In one month: we’ve run 1452 nautical miles, 204 main engine hours, 65 generator hours, 12 wing engine hours.  We’ve used 1370 gallons of fuel – accounting for the wing engine and generator time we averaged 5.8 gph on the main engine.  Taking the times down here in La Paz – I can now announce the Big Cat in the engine room  (our only pet on board) crossed 9000 hours – barely broken in.

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Caleta Partida — Diving with fishes (video)

1.13.2013 15:00 pm

Puerto Ballena was beautiful, and well protected from N wind, but it was a nightmare with W wind. On our second night at the anchorage, wind started blowing from the W at midnight. Swells rolled directly into the cove. Surely enough, we re-lived our Channel Islands nightmare — had to re-anchor in complete darkness. Luckily we managed without much drama, but decided we’d move to a better anchorage the next morning.

Caleta Partida, the strait between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla La Parfida, is recognized as the best anchorage in the area. After the re-anchor exercise, Caleta Partida sounded pretty good to us. It was indeed a great spot, a sweet cove tucked in between the two islands. We even saw a whale hanging out on our way into the anchorage.


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